Season 2024 - to the Caribbean
Bluewater upgrades, a return through Orca Alley, the Canaries, and across to Grenada via the Cape Verdes.
Ocean upgrades - getting Atlantic ready
With the Atlantic beckoning in November, the pre-season has been one of extensive planning, budgeting, and equipment upgrades. Arkyla has already proven her bluewater credentials crossing Biscay in 2022. I had extensively refitted Arkyla pre-Biscay to what I thought was an ocean-ready status; this included safety systems big and small, a sail plan for a short-handed crew, electronic upgrades, and installation of solar and wind power renewables. Many lessons were learned on Biscay however, and a more critical look at her systems for extended downwind passage-making has inevitably resulted in further significant dents to the wallet! I have grouped the upgrades into key areas; sailing equipment, communications, power, and life support, security, and comfort:
Sailing & safety related equipment:
Sails. When replacing Arkyla's sails in 2019, I discussed my need for an easily-handled downwind rig with the legendary Peter, namesake behind Sanders Sails of Lymington. I was taken by the recent introduction of the Elvstrom 'Bluewater Runner', and Peter cut me a pair of lighter-weight genoas in highly durable Vectran cloth; this twin headsail combination is permanently set on the forestay and used with sails either atop each other when reaching, or poled out either side when running downwind. This has proven an excellent rig... except in light airs. With winds below 10 knots, there just isn't enough puff to keep the sails filled with resulting collapsing toward the head and consequent rolling if there is any level of sea state off the stern. After much soul searching, I have dug deep and splashed out on a Parasailor! An expensive sail, but significant savings by arranging delivery, through the most helpful UK dealer Stuart of Parasailor.co.uk, to the boat in VAT-free Gibraltar whilst Arkyla is 'Yacht in Transit'. A significant investment, but one that I foresee will pay dividends well beyond the Atlantic crossing. Cost: £7,600 (exc VAT, but includes delivery and 4x sheets/guys).
Crew safety. Moving between crew area and helm position within the cockpit requires stepping up and around the binnacle and wheel; this used to necessitate unclipping from the forward hard-points and being untethered until clipping back in once at the stern - clearly a significant and unacceptable risk at night and mid-ocean. To address this key safety concern, I have had a bespoke jackstay made up by Jimmy Green Marine; this attaches at the front of the cockpit, but provides a continuous line round and behind the binnacle so there is now no need to unclip to move anywhere within and between cockpit areas. Cost: £50.
Boat safety. World Cruising Club (WCC) conditions of entry to ARC/ARC+ rallies have been updated; boats must now be equipped with an additional high-volume electrical (or engine) driven water pump capable of expelling at least 200 litres/minute. I have purchased a 3500 gallons per hour marine unit from Amazon. Cost: £45.
Communications:
Satellite communications. Another WCC condition of entry is to have an approved long-range communication system onboard; this can be either SSB radio, satellite system, or both. For many cruising boats, Starlink is the system of choice; I have chosen not to go this route, primarily on the basis of power draw required by the system and the fact that it doesn't offer an emergency solution if abandoning the boat was required. I have instead equi[[ed Arkyla with the Predictwind Iridium Go! Exec package. Clearly this does not provide the high-speed access to the internet as per Starlink, but it does provide optimised mail, messaging and, most importantly, Predictwind weather and routing services. Cost: £1640 (hardware). Predictwind Professional subscription £400 (1 year - shorter terms available). Predictmail subscription £100 (12 months - shorter terms available)
Power generation:
Hydrogeneration. Arkyla already has 300 watts of solar and a potential 400+ watts of wind power. The Atlantic east-to-west passage brings with it certain renewable limitations however. In more southern latitudes, days are shorter than those experienced in more northern summers so available hours for solar charging are more limited; the potential of shielding by large downwind sails as the sun moves forward of the bow can also limit the potential for charging for typical installations of panels on a boat. Whilst the tradewinds will hopefully blow consistently at 15-20 knots, the liklihood is that they will be blowing from the stern resulting in lower apparent wind speeds and charging potential. As part of a 'spread betting' approach, I am adding a hydrogeneration layer to Arkyla's renewable energy setup. I have chosen a Remoran Wave 3GS package; it is good value for money and low impact in terms of weight and space to store when not fitted to the transom. Potential energy generation is an expected 200 watts day, night, rain or shine. Cost: £2500 (complete installation package).
Life support, security & comfort:
Water supply. For the 5-day Biscay crossing, I provisioned with bottled water to support drinking and cooking for crew; quite apart from taking up so much space, it was expensive and environmentally damaging given the amount of plastic. A similar water strategy would not work for an Atlantic crossing. Water-makers are expensive in terms of money, space, and electrical power. Arkyla is blessed with large water tanks (800 litres spread between 2 tanks); as such I looked for a solution to ensure safe drinking water predominantly from the existing boat tankage. I decided to install a Riva Explorer Overland twin filter system in the galley. The recyclable filters are made from biodegradable materials; one filter eliminates legionella and bacteria, the other filters contaminants including heavy metals, microplastics, hormones, drug residues, pesticides, fungicides, carbon, asbestos, and chlorine. I have designed the system so that it can be easily unplugged from the galley plumbing and used as a pre-filter for water topping up the tanks. Cost: £290 (initial installation), £80 (set of 2 filters for each season) .
Security. This section I have broken into two core risks; dangers from mother nature, and defence against raiders. In terms of the natural environment, climate change and its impact on global weather systems has significantly impacted the marine insurance industry; there are few insurers even willing to underwrite boats heading to, and remaining in, the Caribbean. The premium from my present insurers (Admiral Marine) will nearly double yet, even if the boat is located outside of the official hurricane zone, there is no cover against any named storms. Topsail have indicated that they will cover the boat, including named storms outside the zone, but the premium does rise an extra 10%. To sleep easy at night in the tropics with air flowing through the boat, but without the fear of marauders of the night sneaking aboard to relieve the boat of equipment and possessions, I am having bespoke companinway and forehatch security grills fabricated. Cost: Comprehensive hull insurance £4,600 (cover against named storms), Security grills £300.
Comfort. Arkyla is a raised deck saloon; as such there is potential for the double-glazed windows to make the interior of the boat unbearably hot. She is already equipped with low-power fans in each cabin and can, if desired, use the Eberspacher diesel heater to pump ambient air around the boat (not burning diesel, but needing a high current draw). To keep the interior cool, I have therefore invested in covers for the deck saloon windows; these are made so that it is possible to see through them to observe the outside world, but they reflect much of the heat from the sun. Once the sun dios, biting insects becomes an issue in the tropics; I have some great Waterline Design mosquito net products from the Swedish-based BoatSystem Group that includes forehatch windscoop, companionway net, and hatch covers. Cost: Window covers £230 , Windscoop £60, Companionway net £65.
Total Atlantic refit cost:
The costs detailed above are the main items to bring the boat ocean and tropics ready. I haven't of course included items such as marina fees, provisioning costs, engine spares, or other minor ancillaries that will inevitably occur on any type of long passage. Not all of these costs are essential, indeed some could be considered an extravagance! However, given Arkyla was already a well-equipped Swedish-built bluewater cruiser, they give an indication of what may be needed to take a 45' boat trans-Atlantic in both comfort and safety. Whilst it is undeniably possible to sail oceans on a budget, and many cruisers do so, it is aswell to take the many social media claims out there that ocean sailing can be as cheap as you want to make it. Total baseline ocean & tropics refit and security cost: £17,780.
Sea Trials - a dash to Mallorca (4-8 May)
With the usual pre-season commissioning done (sails bent on, impeller changed, electronics updated, etc), and new systems installed, there is a short weather window for a blast across to Mallorca to check all is well before leaving Valencia behind on Arkyla's push out of the Med. Whilst a general check that all things are ship-shape is never a bad thing to flush out any post-winter gremlins, I have a specific need to check that the Remoran 'Wave 3' has successfully integrated into the holistic energy system to provide hydro-generation to the existing solar, wind, and engine electrical power inputs (see the Technical section for Arkyla's ocean crossing energy budget).
Destination Sóller - the jewel of Mallorca's north coast:
Sóller was chosen for several reasons; first and foremost, at 140 nm from Valencia, it is a good 24-hour sail which would hopefully provide all the data needed to assess the Remoran and its ability to provide the extra power needed to balance the boat's energy equation for her upcoming Atlantic crossing. Also, my press-ganged crew for this jaunt had never visited this lovely harbour so, thinking all would be quiet this early in the season, the course was set; against all Mediterranean odds, even the winds were blowing in the right direction.
By 1030, Arkyla was outside Valencia's harbour walls, the main and genoa set in a pleasant Force 3, and were being treated to some lazy sailing whilst soaking up the sun in the cockpit. All was good with the world, and to my joy the hydrogenrator was pumping out the amps like it was on steroids! Even the dolphins joined along for the ride! As the afternoon progressed, so the winds strengthened and moved forward of the beam. With two reefs set in the genoa, senses were shaken when an almighty 'bang' and a wildly flogging headsail indicated trouble... the CAM on the furling block had disintegrated! Not a major drama, but the decision was made to fully roll the genoa, securing the line to a deck cleat, and the jib was rolled out in stead to head into the night watches.
Any notions of a cosy night crossing were soon dispelled once the orange ball dropped below the horizon; with a F5 on the bow it was bitterly cold even with four layers beneath ocean foulies! The passage was not without its joys though; a moonless night let the stars shine bright and the arch of the Milky Way was clearly visible with the naked eye. More dolphins came to visit, and bioluminescence was in plentiful supply sliding down the hull and off the stern into our wake. Just before dawn the moon gave a spectacular display as it rose from behind Mallorca's mountainous north coast. With 20 nm still to run, the wind deserted us however so it was under engine that we entered the harbour to anchor.
Port of Sóller - anchoring shenanigans:
The Port of Sóller, nestled within the surrounding peaks of the Traumantana mountain range, is the only true all-weather refuge along Mallorca's north coast. It is distinct to the town of Sóller that lies inland, a 20 minute historic narrow-gauge tram ride into the hills. Both towns ooze beauty, history, and charm and are, consequently, popular tourist destinations. If visiting, a trip inland should not be missed.
The port is a working harbour with marina and prohibited naval zone. A seaside town, it has plenty of restaurants, bars, and shops. All these attractions, combined with the lack of alternative harbours or anchoring sites along this stretch of coast, means that competition for space can be intense, even out of high season.
As with any Balearic anchorage, avoiding areas of Posidonia seagrass is a legal requirement that is enthusiastically enforced with significant (€800-1000) fines; this adds fuel to the anchoring fire as yachts make dubious, and risky, decisions on where to drop hook. Winds can be confused in the confines of the harbour and boats swing erratically according to hull form and length of chain. We chose a spot close to a classic schooner; an hour or so later, in a small world of coincidence, Arkyla's sister ship 'Nostra' (Regina 43, hull No. 41) entered the bay and settled 100m from us! All was perfect until, close to dusk, an older generation 60-footer Oyster chose to position itself at the centre of our happy triangle; it dropped hook and the crew promptly shot off for dinner ashore! As the light faded, the Oyster began its swing of doom; first I had to manhandle her off Arkyla's bow, next the schooner had to defend its stern, and finally Nostra had to fender up her broadside... an unscheduled anchor watch it was then! To be fair to the double-handed French crew of the Oyster (who must have had a wonderful night ashore, not returning until past midnight), they were very apologetic and instantly set to weighing anchor to move into the deeper water in the bay. If only the shenanigans ended there... the following day we returned from a trip ashore to find a charter boat dropping, to our eyes, clearly too close. Diplomatically asking how much chain they had set, I suggested things may get complicated with the inevitable swirling wind shifts. A little later, as their stern swung inches from Arkyla's bowsprit, they eventually (after more gentle persuasion) lifted anchor to reset further away; it was obvious that the chartering crew lacked experience, had a deep fear of anchoring, and had hoped that they could rest easy on their initial catch of the hook.
Return to Valencia:
Wind and time dictated that our stay was regrettably short and sweet; an early morning departure had us heading back along a reciprocal track to the one that brought us here just two days earlier. We were treated to a dramatic sunset passing the Columbres island group then, in the dark of night, a demonic display of lightning over Mallorca happily now 80 nm behind our stern. A lone dolphin, visible only for the outline of phosphorescence it created, provided the only wildlife encounter of this leg. Returning to Valencia, the boat was berthed for the thankfully not-too-long list of snags to be rectified. All in all, not a bad trip to kick start Arkyla's 2024 season.
Some lessons learned:
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Even. out of season, the Balearics can be busy and anchoring stressful.
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Tests of new installations is essential before a major ocean crossing.
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An early season sea trial is a great way to identify winter snags for fixing before the season fully gets under way.
Exiting the Med: Valencia to Gibraltar (12-28 May)
The Plan. A planned departure of 13 May, and a scheduled haul-out in Algeceiras on the 28th of the same month, gave us two and half weeks to cover the 400 nm to the Bay of Gibraltar. The key strategy was one of flexibility... hope for a good set of easterlies, and make progress west whenever weather allowed; inshore or offshore would most likely be dictated by the amount of time in the passage 'bank'.
Leg 1 - Valencia to Cartagena (12-13 May, 153nm)
Westerlies! And a prolonged forecast for them - exactly what I wasn't hoping for! Sixteen days may sound like a lot to rattle off 400 nm, but this is the Med and the wind can be a cruel mistress; I did not want to be put in a position of making foolhardy decisions so, with a 24-hour weather window opening up on 12 May (a day earlier than the planned departure), albeit one with a lot of potential motoring, the decision was made to head south to Denia then turn west toward our goal... Cartagena would be our first aim point.
The day starts golden and deadly calm - there will be no need for a bow thruster to exit Arkyla's berth which is often cursed with a tricky crosswind; this is a good thing as the thruster props are almost totally encrusted with growth after the winter layover - another job for haul-out! We slip lines and head out of Marina de Valencia's protective walls for the last time... we are heading west! Actually, we are first heading SSE, but in my head we are now following the sun out of the Med and once again Atlantic-bound!
Once through the assortment of oilers and large container vessels at anchor in the approaches, a breath of wind appears and soon we have the sails out and drawing, pulling us along at a respectable 5 knots. Over the next 7 hours we make good progress though, as we near Denia, the wind veers and the genoa is replaced with the jib to make tacking around Punta del Emperador less arduous. As dusk sets in, the wind drops and it is clear that sailing must be postponed; engine and nav lights are turned on to make the turn south-west round Cabo de la Nao.
The night watches were windless and under motor. With no moon, only the lights of Benidorm to starboard gave any form of visual reference. In the pitch black, a large motor vessel appeared from nowhere and sped close down our port side; showing no AIS or Nav lights, and not raising even the smallest of blips on radar, we assumed it to be a stealth warship checking us out in the dead of night! Clearly we were considered far to pretty and slow to be engaged in any nefarious activity and, just ss soon as they had appeared, they were gone again to leave us motoring unhindered until another golden sunrise ushered in the new day. As any boat owner knows, senses become acutely tuned to the sounds of the mothership; five NM from Cartagena, my ears pricked up to a change in pitch from the stern gear. Heaving aside grab bags, emergency pumps and bolt croppers to expose the shaft, I could see evidence of escaping oil from the dripless seal which was now, after 10 solid hours of motoring, scorching hot to the touch. Caution won over bravado, and we leisurely eased Arkyla the last few miles into her reserved berth in Yacht Port Cartagena. When making my shutdown checks, I also noticed evidence of water seeping from the rudder shaft seal... another job, along with the stern gear, for haul-out in Algeceiras!
Port stop in Cartagena:
Cartagena, with its fascinating history and mix of cultures, is a great place to stop and explore. However, with a schedule to keep and rather stiff marina prices (€80 per night for 14m), it was the onset of strong westerlies that kept us harbour-bound here for a few days. We didn't venture far from the waterside, but here you don't have to to delight in tapas, wander the streets of the old town, and explore the Roman excavations. With small shots of both amazement and amusement, we noted the real estate market for historic frontage. I say frontage as this is exactly, and all, that you get; peer behind the crumbling brick and stone facades and you discover scaffold-supported facades with empty development space behind - an excellent formula for bringing new life to historic areas! The 'old' of the town contrasts starkly to the 'modern' of the port area. This really is a city of contrasts.
Leg 2 - Cartagena to Garrucha (15 May, 49nm)
We were not the only boat it transpired making dashes west between weather windows; slipping lines at first light to put the dockyard cranes and naval vessels in our wake, for our entire passage across the Golfo de Vera we were shadowed by 'Cactus', a Canadian-flagged Beneteau First 49. When we rolled out sail, so did they; when we furled to motor so they followed our lead. It was an uneventful, and somewhat uninspiring, passage but at least we were gradually making way toward the Bay of Gibraltar. Once again, it was another day without any signs of marine life save a few seabirds... where are the dolphins?
Port stop: Garrucha
What a strange little place Garrucha is! Reviews on Navily warn of swell and dust and this was certainly the case for us. The Port of Garrucha can only accommodate vessels to 12m and there are, apparently only few visitor berths to be had. The newer Marina de Garrucha however can take the largest of cruising boats and has plenty of space. The marina however is open to south-westerly swell and conditions can be very rolly when tied alongside; it is wise to deploy all fenders aboard and, if possible, hold the boat off the key using the spare 'stern-too' lazy lines if possible - it really can get a bit wild in here! The marina shares the harbour with a commercial dock for loading gravel into container ships and, during week days, is the source of the aforementioned dust; Arkyla was literally covered within 24 hours! All that said, the marineros are super helpful (though be warned few speak any English), and the price of a stay is cheap (€20 a night). The shoreside facilities will not, shall we say, receive any awards however and most choose to close a holding tank and shower aboard whilst here!
The town itself has enough to keep you occupied for a few days if stuck in harbour. It is a tourist resort, popular with Spaniards and Germans, that boasts the only 'Blue Flag' town beach in the whole of Europe; indeed, it would be idyllic were it not for the view of the commercial ships just across the harbour! There are no shortage of bars and restaurants either; I thoroughly recommend the gin bar 'La Gintoneria' within the marina-side restaurant complex.
Leg 3 - Garrucha to Agua Dulce (19 May, 57nm)
After 4 days holed up in Garruche, a short weather window presents itself to push a little further west; if nothing else, escaping the dust and swell drives us to making the lines to slips ready for escape! Time is tight however before another forecast onslaught of westerlies. Ideally we would push to Almerimar but, if the forecast models hold true, this would entail two hours of bashing headlong into 25 knots to round Punta Sabinar. Puerto Aguadulce is chosen instead; although this will take us a small dog leg to the top of the Bay Of Almeria, the 10nm saving on the day's route will hopefully get us tied up before the hefty winds hit. That, at least, was the theory; reality had the forecast winds arrive ahead of schedule and, even with our shortened course, the last 10 nm across the bay was spent beating into the 25 knot winds we had hoped to miss. By 1700 however, Arkyla was secure in harbour tied alongside the fuel dock for the night.
Port stop: Agua Dulce
After a night tied to the fuel dock without shore power, it was something of a shock to receive a low voltage warning when firing up the engine; in short, Arkyla's battery banks chose now to give up the ghost! With flight and haul-out deadlines looming in Gibraltar, we couldn't afford to wait for replacement units to be shipped here, but we did decide to hang in the port a few days whilst the pesky westerlies continued to blow. It's a pleasant place to wait out the weather however; a clean and secure marina, plenty of restaurants, nice beach, and good provisioning.
Leg 4 - Agua Dulce to Motril (23 May, 52nm)
We left Agua Dulce close to first light with some light fog hanging to the coast - the sun gave a kaleidoscope of colours as it gradually rose through, then above, the mist. A light breeze gave some hope of sailing, but after an hour of slapping sails it was clear that this would be another motoring leg. The only entertainment came from the VHF. First, at 1000hrs, was a Pan Pan call detailing a MoB suspected to have happened at 0600hrs; we heard no more after this, but the hopes of finding a lost soul after four hours with no lifejacket could not have been good. We were now close enough to pick up transmissions from the Straits, and we heard the first of what was to be numerous 'territorial water incursion' calls from Gibraltar. We motored on, eventually berthing into the family run Marina Motril in the early evening. Never before have I received such a warm welcome from proprietor-come-marinero - faith in the marine industry fully restored by this somewhat rickety destination! We didn't venture ashore that evening, instead opting to throw back a few beers watching the Baleares ferry manoeuvering somewhat scarily close to our stern!
Leg 5 - Motril to Fuengirola (24 May, 56nm)
Tantalisingly close to our end destination, temptation was to push the last 105 NM direct to Gibraltar. However, with a forecast for little to no wind, and some nagging doubts about the integrity of Arkyla's stern gland oil seal, I decided one more stop was still needed. There were two obvious options; Benalmadena or Fuengirola. I'd been into Benalmadena some 15 years previously and remembered it to be a somewhat brash resort for beer-swilling sun worshippers. I opted to go the extra 5 NM into Fuengirola - an unknown entity for me save a week's post-A level trip to a friend's villa in 1983!
Exiting Motril we had a F3-4 off the beam so out rolled the main and genoa - what do these forecasters know! Well, it seems they know quite a lot as, 20 minutes and a solitary NM later, the sails were once again furled and the engine back in action. And so it would be for the remaining 50 NM. We passed along the coast of Torremolinos, looking through the binoculars at the conjoined mass of high-rise apartment blocks and hotels; an awful blight on the spectacular natural scenery of this coast and what I would consider to be holiday hell. Each to their own I suppose.
We slipped past the small anchorage outside the harbour (which I would have used had Arkyla's batteries been in better shape!) and tied to the waiting pontoon that I had earlier reserved. Fuengirola didn't tempt us into the town beyond the restaurants lining the marina so, after a quick meal ashore, it was back to the boat for a night cap and sleep ahead of our last leg to Gibraltar Bay in the early morning.
Leg 6 - Fuengirola to La Linea, Gibraltar Bay (25 May, 49nm)
The last leg (of this seasonal segment at least)! The sun came up, but once again someone had forgotten to turn on the wind machine... another 50 NM of motoring lay ahead of us. We left the high-rise developments in Arkyla's stern to dodge the many fishing pots blotting our way west. A few chuckles were raised at the expense of the odd looking kayaking-anglers (I have no idea where they intended to store any prospective catch), before we glided along a glassy sea past Marbella toward our destination. Not a breath of wind even threatened to cause a ripple until we were weaving between the tankers anchored just inside the gate to the Strait. Before rounding the rock a couple of pods of dolphin swam close by, but none were interested in paying us a proper visit. As Arkyla made her turn around Europa point, I realised that it was a year to the day that she had passed this point heading in to the Med; it felt a little odd to be leaving this sea so soon and so relatively unexplored, but the Caribbean was most definitely calling. Before long, Arkyla was secure in a finger berth in Alcaidesa Marina... time to prepare for her haul out ashore in Algeceiras across the bay!
Some lessons learned:
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If sailing to a timeline, be prepared to motor... a lot! I gave myself 3 weeks to cover the 400 NM from Valencia to Gibraltar Bay. but, even with some lengthy port stays, I put 64 hours on the Yanmar.
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With boats stacking up early season at either end to enter or exit the Med, calling ahead to reserve berths is often prudent.
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Anchoring options are relativelyfew and far between along this stretch of Spanish coastline.
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I later learned that ports with an associated naval base may offer free berthing to yachts with a military connection - I could have saved a lot of money!
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Some ports and marinas are uncomfortable in certain prevailing winds.
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Be prepared to make short hops when opportunity arises to claw away at the westward miles.
Haul-out: El Rodeo, Algeciras (28 May-4 Jun)
Arkyla had not been hauled since 2022; after 2 years in the water she needed a hull polish, CopperCoat burnish, anode change, and bow thruster clean. Additionally, this delivery from Valencia had identified a small leak from the rudder post, and the oil leak issue from the dripless seal stern gland. With both limited budget and Schengen days, I needed an option that would allow me maximise 'time on boat'.
Isla Verde 'El Rodeo' boatyard in Algeciras lies on the western side of the Bay opposite Gibraltar; it is a 5 NM motor from Alcaidesa marina, La Linea. Unlike most Spanish yards, it allows customers to live onboard whilst on the hard - a potential advantage when looking to maximise work time and minimise extra accommodation costs. It's website boasts of an onsite chandlery 'with a wide variety of items and extensive catalogue of 1000s of items for delivery within 48 hours'. More about all these things this later! Baseline haul-out rates were also very competitive.
Haul Out:
I was instructed to have the boat in place, ready to haul, at 0800hrs. After a dawn dash across the Bay, I arrived at the slip by 0730 and already third in line! Gradually the yard staff arrived on station; little English was spoken, but Google Translate helped understand the process (which was basically to wait my turn). I had previously agreed to take down canvas (though leaving headsails furled), and to mark up lifting points. The crane operator asked about Arkyla's underwater profile and having a profile drawing of the hull was a bonus.
Arkyla's length and weight were well within limits of the crane, and the operators were very professional taking great care during the lift. Whilst in the slings she was pressure washed and I was again impressed by the yard staffs' attention to detail. Once on the stands, they scraped the hard growth from hull and keel, and I was shown where to plug in for electricity. It was now all down to me!
Marine Contractors:
El Rodeo did not have organic mechanics to help me replace stern gland oil seals and remove the upper rudder stock to replace the packing, but did recommend Cadiz-based company Norsur Nautica. Hosé was semi-resident at the yard, so was there to assess my needs at haul-out, and was able to start work the next day; his technical knowledge, diligence, spoken English, and willingness to go that extra step were all excellent. Hourly rates were also reasonable.
Boatyard amenities:
On-site services were not as expected. Site ablutions of three toilets (only two with seats) were of dubious cleanliness, as was the one basic shower; given the yard charges €20 per night to stay onboard your vessel, I chose to invest an additional €20 each evening to stay in a 4* Reina Cristina hotel a 10-minute e-scooter ride away. As the yard was within an enclosed port industrial complex, with no shops or restaurants, staying in the hotel made further sense in terms of feeding myself!
The 'chandlery' was also significantly 'over advertised'. It held no basic stock, not even compound, polish, or pads; when I exhausted my onboard supply it was my new best friend Hosé who sourced and delivered items. The yard promise of 48-hour delivery was not only overly optimistic but also outrageously expensive. It was Sod's Law that my Random Orbital Polisher died a death with the port side of the hull still unstarted; the best of the boater community came through however, and a fellow haul-out local insisted on driving me to a retail outlet some 10km out of town to purchase a new unit!
Boatyard costs:
The outline cost for the yard was very reasonable (especially the cane lift out/in), however the non-optional extras significantly added to the final price. These included; daily scaffold hire (€20/day), electricity and water (€16/day), clean-up/waste charge (€10/day). For the external contractor, there was a 10% surcharge to Hosé's final labour bill. Electing not to stay onboard during my stay (€20/night) I also incurred some form of charge for the days working after yard-hours.
Relaunch:
The relaunch went just as smoothly as the haul out a week earlier. Motoring back across the Bay, it was instantly clear that all the hard work had paid off; the bow thruster now provided sideways propulsion, and the cleaned Flexofold prop and hull gave Arkyla at least an extra 1.5 knots speed through water. There were no leaks from the rudder post, and the stern gland oil reservoir stayed exactly as it should - full! All that remained now was to replace the domestic bank and starter battery. Arkyla has a relatively small battery compartment, and only Leoch batteries came correctly sized to give the amount of Amp Hours I needed to replace. Unfortunately I could only find Leoch availability in the UK and, post-BREXIT, this meant a whole load of hurt to source within the EU. Electrical Marine Services (EMS) of Gibraltar however were able to import the desired units - I was now heading to the Rock!
Some lessons learned:
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Be wary of online claims regarding available services at a yard of interest - check reviews and ask direct questions.
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Check the small print for supplementary costs above the baseline.
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Make friends with others in the boat yard... you never know when a favour may be called upon.
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Try to have all materials needed onboard before arriving at the yard - you don't know what may be available
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Research accommodation costs in the vacinity of target yards as these could be as important to the overall cost of the lift.
A brief stay in Gibraltar (10-20 Jun):
I needed to move Arkyla to Gibraltar for two reasons; to fit the replacement battery bank (as the Leoch 130AH AGMs could not be supplied to Spain in less than an estimated 3-4 months), and to collect the Parasailor spinnaker that had been ordered some three months back. The move to Gib had another important aspect too; to stop my Schengen days ticking off whilst I waited for the batteries and, as it happened, a suitable weather window out of the Straits.
There are two berthing options in Gibraltar; Ocean Village & Marina Bay which lies to the north close to the airport, and Queensway Quay Marina situated within the main harbour area of the territory. We initially went into Ocean Village and were moored directly beneath the bows of the 5* floating 'Sunborn' hotel. Ocean Village has probably the best ablution facilities of anywhere I have been; where else are you treated to a private shower room with bath and toilet? The downside is the cost; although on a par with Spanish Alcaidesa marina the other side of the runway, it is almost twice the price of its southerly neighbour Queensway. With a delay to delivery of the batteries, after a few days we moved to Queensway; remarkable value and a quieter setting with fewer, but more upmarket, restaurants. Both marinas are within walking distance of the town, but for Sheppards Chandlery, Ocean Village is closer; the equally well-stocked Gib Yachts Chandlery is easier reached from Queensway.
A trip up the Rock:
I've spent a lot of time previously in Gibraltar but, shamelessly, never ventured further than the main High Street; This visit I was frog-marched by my crew to the cable car to explore 'up top'. And very glad of the forced tourism I was too! Apart from the spectacular views into both the Bay and the western Med, there are fascinating exhibits through the old military tunnels and installations and, of course, the chance to have your possessions stolen by famed Barbary Macaques resident on the hill. Leave nothing to chance with these daylight robbers; they will have your hat, glasses, and be emptying your backpack within seconds if you are not constantly on guard!
Parasailor training:
The much anticipated delivery of Arkyla's new Parasailor spinnaker was duly executed by Gib Cargo's aircraft-to-boat service. Stuart Anderson of Ocean Chandlery, the UK suppliers of Parasailor, soon followed for a free day of training on the new kite. This is a great service as Stuart not only teaches how to launch, fly, and douse the sail, but he comes loaded with a great assortment of blocks, rings and soft shackles to help best set the sheets and guys according to the vagaries of your boat. It was clear that Arkyla's forward stay and pulpit ladder would cause some issues, but we managed to rig a temporary solution to enable us to complete the training. Later I handed Pritchard's Marine (the only 316 stainless steel fabricators in Gibraltar) a basic bowsprit extension design and, 24 hours later, I was fully equipped to effortlessly fly the new sail free of snags. It has to be said, Situational Awareness was tested to the max learning the intricacies of this new sail whilst trying to weave around anchored tankers and dodge the fast ferries of Algeciras!
Batteries replaced:
A slight delay through customs of our new batteries kept us in Gibraltar a few more days than planned but, as this coincided with a spell of strong westerlies, it didn't seriously impact the plan to push back into the Atlantic. The batteries were supplied and expertly fitted by Dave of EMS who also identified and cured the spurious hydrogenerator voltage readings on the Victron monitor; a quick rewire of the negative lead was all that was needed! This was the last piece of the maintenance and refit puzzle... Arkyla was fully ocean ready!
Some lessons learned:
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Beware the difference in prices between the Gibraltar marinas.
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If importing goods into Gibraltar, use a distribution company that can ease the customs process.
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Maintain high situational awareness when sailing in Gibraltar Bay - there's a lot to hit, anchored and fast moving!
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Take time to visit the Rock - but beware the ASBO apes!
Gibraltar to Lagos - return to Orca Alley (21-28 Jun):
Finally boat, crew, and (of a sort) weather were ready... it was time to re-enter Orca Alley. Last year the route into the Med was non-contentious; just stick to the shallow water along the Portuguese and Spanish coasts. This year however Arkyla was heading south; at some point she must cross into deep ocean water, in so doing exposing her to risk of orca attack. Should this be done early (crossing direct to Ceuta then following the Moroccan coast), or later from a place along the European coast? The African route is attractive in that it is significantly shorter, but has its own problems; unmarked fishing nets within the shallow waters, high instances of orca attacks (especially off Cap Spartel), and some reports of attempted piracy incidents off the west African coast. Information was again our weapon, and the expert advice all pointed toward the longer northern route. Taking this option would mean missing the opportunity to swing by Madeira, but safety was the overriding consideration. We used the same strategies as last year (see 2023 cruising blog), but equipped Arkyla with a set of waterproof firecrackers as a last line of defence if we were to be attacked by the Iberian Killer Whales - one yacht had already been sunk this season and many more disabled.
Taking the northern route meant, of course, that I must check back into Schengen if I were to be allowed to step off the boat during the day sails westward. This can be done at the La Linea border customs post (there is a dedicated section within the police building located to the right of the pedestrian crossing point), but to get here I must exit Gibraltar, then dock Arkyla at Spanish Marina Alcaidesa to enter the EU. In preparation of a pre-dawn start, intent was to hang off the hook that night; as such I asked if I could come alongside the waiting pontoon for 30 minutes whilst I dashed to check out. This was duly granted by the marina staff... but only if I paid for a full night of berthing! I felt robbed of my wallet - literally in broad daylight - but I had little option but to hand over €40 before heading back out to anchor. Before turning in for the night, a near-full moon rose behind the yachts at anchor on a collision course for the top of the Rock; when we woke we saw it again before it rapidly dropped behind the mountains of Algeciras, plunging the bay into darkness.
Hop 1: Gibraltar Bay to Cadiz (21 Jun, 80nm)
Gibraltar Bay in the dark is not a place for the faint-hearted; anchored tankers, moving commercial shipping, early fast ferries, and shallows off the western prominentories necessitate a sharp (and very much awake) mind. I was thankful not only of radar and AIS, but also the keen eyes of my crew alerting me to obstacles stationary and moving! Rounding Punta del Carnero, dawn was finally setting in and the sky behind the Rock turned from deep blues to bright oranges. There was no significant westerly to hamper us, but neither was there any easterly! The day was to be characterised by motoring along the 20m contour line. Our timing (departing two hours after High Water Gibraltar) to round Tarifa at slack tide was impeccable and the favourable tide made for fast progress. Such good progress in fact that as we approached our original aim point of Barbate, we chose to continue on to Cadiz. Local intelligence was that the Zahara net east of Barbate (where last year we took a somewhat scary inside path) was anchored to shore, so we motored as fast as possible round the outer marker in 40m of water; we would later find out that a yacht some 6 hours later would be attacked and disabled here by an orca on our exact track, so when docked we toasted to dodging a bullet! The Almadabra tunny nets are charted and well marked, but the two don't always correlate! Finding the cardinal buoys can be a challenge unless you know what to look for, with some mounted on small, anchored vessels. Beware stray buoys too as you can never be too certain if they are attached to the wider net.
Ten NM out from Cadiz the wind strengthened - on the nose of course! This was not to deter us pulling out some sail however for a few hours beating toward our destination, and we experienced some sporty sailing before rounding the corner to be swept along with the fast flowing tide to Puerto America where we had pre-booked a berth.
Port Stop: Cadiz
We'd missed out on Cadiz on the way into the Med last year, opting instead to layover in Rota across the bay. Gifting ourselves some recovery time therefore took little convincing so we could spend a full day exploring this city full of history. The trek was well worth the effort; green park spaces, quaint streets, a fabulous market with street food stalls, beaches, and a walk along the causeway to the fort that guards the shallows on approach to the bay.
Back at the boat we watched the evening sky go through a kaleidoscope of colours before a full moon rose behind the cranes of the industrial port neighbouring the marina. We were heading to our bunks, but in the distance we could see the city only just starting to come alive for the night! Had we not been on a schedule for the Canaries we would all have wished to have stayed longer!
Hop 2: Cadiz to Mazagon (23 Jun, 47nm)
A forecast for minimal wind prompted a relatively short haul for our next leg... 47nm to Mazagon. Heading to this quiet town would also keep us to the shallows preventing any temptation to cross the bay directly in deeper water and at increased risk of orca interactions. Motoring out we dodged a convoy of three tug boats proceeding at speed across the bay, but there was little of any excitement after that. It was a passage of two halves; an initial motor followed by a gentle sail in a F3 for the last 3 hours before rounding the low-tide beach off the marina breakwater. What a joy though to get into port at a decent hour to relax with a drink in the sun!
Hop 3: Mazagon to Ayamonte (24 Jun, 36nm)
The pilot guide quotes Ayamonte, the town on the Spanish side of the Guardiano river, as being a port of entry/exit. With intent to check out of the EU to save myself 4 Schengen days whilst on passage to the Canaries, the thought was to hang here for a weather window to head south. Slipping from our Mazagon berth at a most leisurely 1100 hrs, it was another day of light airs under motor except for a final hour under sail and somewhat slow progress upwind to catch the tidal gate into the river. Due care was also needed at the marina entrance where, until out of the flow of the river, cross currents are fierce and depths are shallow.
Ground truth at the marina office however is that to check out here, a customs official must drive in from Huelva - essentially where we had just come from! Advice was to check out from Portugal where, apparently, the process is simpler and less painful. We re-evaluated our plan; stay just one night here then head to Portimao or Lagos where I could not only check out, but we could properly provision. The Imray Tide App was consulted, and alarm clocks set for another dawn departure!
Hop 4: Ayamonte to Feraguda (25 Jun, 68nm)
Just as you don't want to enter the Guardiano river at anything less than half flood, neither do you want to cross the bar when the ebb is in full flow... timing is fairly crucial here, so it's engine on in the dark and slipping at first light. Even at this ungodly hour, there is plenty of activity ongoing. As Arkyla heads out of the river, the breakwater is crammed with anglers setting their rods. Sticking to the marked channel, and watching the depth sounder sink unnervingly low , a small trawler speeds in across the charted shallows - clearly local knowledge is king here. Clear of dangers, we set main and genoa in the F3 north-easterly; this soon drops so we furl away the white sails and launch the Parasailor, though after 30 minutes there is not even enough breeze to set this - engine on!
We motor along the inside of the nets east of Culatra, dipping south of the inner cardinal to avoid the shifting sands of the eastern entrance to the lagoon. We pass another cruising yacht - one of the few we've seen heading into the Med - and even spy some dolphins in the distance, though they refuse to come and play. By mid-afternoon, there are signs of the promised breeze in the forecast. Indeed, not so much signs as Aeolus, god of wind, flicking the switch from off to fully on as, within minutes, Arkyla is beating into a fresh F5 north-westerly all the way into the entrance to the Feraguda anchorage. We drop the hook here next to the beautiful, and equally magnificent, mega sailing yacht 'Adela'... time to assess our plans as a glorious orange sky paints Portimao.
Killing time: waiting for a weather window south (26-28 Jun, 16 nm)
The forecast for the offshore leg to the Canaries was decidedly mixed; leave too soon and we would spend a day motoring, and leaving too late would be beset with overly strong northerlies. Leaving in the middle wasn't so great either as the Predictwind sea state was set for waves with a roll factor of 4 (dangerous!). We decided to move to Marina Lagos to refuel, reprovision, and reassess! Lagos was Arkyla's base two seasons ago so the restaurants, supermarkets, and chandleries were all well known. Unfortunately, with no long-stay discount, the marina prices are fairly hefty so, after two days of filling both boat and ourselves with wine and food, we pushed back to Feraguda to wait on the weather. The wait was not long; with flights to catch, we couldn't afford to wait for a perfect forecast so the next day, under a farewell rainbow, the hook was raised and the bow pointed south - Arkyla was headed offshore again!
Some lessons learned:
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Don't believe everything in a pilot book - check in/out information was incorrect for Ayamonte.
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Orcas still pose a significant threat to yachts; do not be complacent in passage planning.
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Taking time out to explore on a delivery keeps spirits high.
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Sometimes there is no perfect weather window.
Offshore to the Canaries (29 Jun-7 Jul):
Leg 1: Portugal to Lanzarote (29 Jun - 3 Jul, 595 nm)
Saturday 0900: Orcas, the approaches to a Traffic Separation Scheme, undersea mounts, 600 nm of open ocean and a feisty forecast... what could possibly go wrong! Quite a lot really, but we weighed anchor with confidence in both boat and crew. Predictwind hinted at a rollercoaster of a passage south but it was now or never if we were to position Arkyla in Las Palmas as planned. As soon as we were clear of the breakwaters, the engine was off and we charged away at 7 knots under full main and genoa; we were inwardly fizzing, outwardly buzzing and generally effervescing - blue water at last! Just two-up, we settled early into a watch routine to ensure that we would last the passage as well rested as possible.
Saturday 1245: By midday the wind was still on the beam but had increased to F5-6; we tucked a first reef into both main and genoa, but our speed kept at 8+ knots... morale was high. As afternoon turns into evening, and evening turns to night, the wind moves more into the north and grows to a steady F6. We maintain our sail plan, but come off our rhum line to guard against an unintentional gybe in the night.
Sunday 0830: The wind has dropped to a F3 northerly so, now in daylight, we deploy the Parasailor; we are heading downwind and back on a direct course! We fly the sail all day, though the wind gradually drops to F2 and progress becomes slow.
Sunday 1930: The wind has picked up (N3-4) and we are flying along. To add to the euphoria, we are joined by a pod of Atlantic Spotted dolphin who escort us for nearly an hour. Off the stern however the sky is looking threatening; thick, dark, low clouds are marching upon us. The difficult decision is made to drop the spinnaker and set reefed white sails.
Sunday 2350: Still under genoa and a reef in the main. The wind has not increased above F4 and we wonder if dousing the Parasailor was the right thing to do? Still, we are making 6 knots - more than acceptable progress!
Monday 0145: Where did the wind go? It has dropped to a F2-3, but it is infuriatingly flukey; it becomes impossible to hold a course without the sails constantly slapping themselves to an early grave. Reluctantly the genoa is rolled and the engine turned on.
Monday 0445: The wind is back! A steady F5 so back out come the sails. Life feels good again - even in the dark and cold of the dog watch!
Monday 0830: NNE F4-5... time to launch the Parasailor again - we are getting quite adept at handling this sail now. What a wonderful morning powering along close to our 20 knot TWS limit. By midday however the wind is more steady at 23 knots; reluctantly we drop the coloured engine! We are all feeling the effects of a tiring night and exhilarating morning; we decide to hold off setting twin headsails and just push along under the self-tacking jib alone. We are making reasonable progress, but the boat is rolling in the 2-3m cross swell. We set a centred main with 2 reefs to give the boat some extra stability which works well. The wind has freshened to a steady NNE F6. By late evening the wind has steadily strengthened so we keep the sail plan heading into the dark hours.
Tuesday 0001: Conditions are, if not wild, definitely sporty... 32 knot winds and 3m seas. We aren't going in the exact direction we need to, but are making good speed even with two rolls in the jib. At the 0600 watch change we make the first of a series of gybes.
Tuesday 1215: Still making good progress under jib, now unfurled, and main with mainsheet now eased to get extra drive. The waves have continued to grow.
Tuesday 1800: Still making progress on a series of broad reaches. The big news though is the surfacing of a North Atlantic Bottlenose whale not six feet from Arkyla's stern. It gives us a cursory look before moving away without a photo opportunity.
Wednesday 0010: We gybe to make sure we clear the Banco De La Conception sea mount NE of Lanzarote; the ocean depth rises rapidly from over two thousand to less than 200m so we don't want to risk falling foul of big, steep, and confused waves.
Wednesday 0610: For the first time in 4 days we have AIS traffic! We radio a ship that we are on direct collision course with to deconflict; the watch officer graciously gives us 1 nm clearance to starboard so we don't need to gybe. The wind has now dropped to F4.
Wednesday 0830: We have daylight and perfect conditions to set the Parasailor again; up goes the kite and up goes our speed! Lanzarote is in visual sight and we become excited about the prospect of a cold beer ashore. By 1400 the wind has piped up to a steady 22 knots. The boat is sailing well and in control, but we have the fear of the dreaded Canary Island Wind Acceleration Zones! We douse the kite and continue under main and jib; not the fastest sail plan, but the most comfortable given the waves that continue to roll the boat.
Wednesday 1630: All sail is lowered and we motor into Marina Lanzarote. The good news is that there is no stern-to Med Mooring here... the bad news is that even inside the protection of the marina we have a 20 knot crosswind, a 'closed' berth, and the boat lying to leeward has no fenders! We make fast with the help of a friendly marinero and without major embarrassment. The shower block and pub are both calling!
Port Stop: Marina Lanzarote, Arrecife.
After 4.5 days of some fairly intense sailing, and to avert crew mutiny, we decided to hang in Arrecife for a few days; any exploring would be done by foot and/or car! Marina Lanzarote is not only cheap, but well serviced in terms of facilities and restaurants. It is also within walking distance of the town with its well stocked chandleries and myriad of bars. A car rental shop is very handily sited a few minutes walk from the pontoons, so it is very easy to more widely explore this moonscaped island. Berthing fees may be low here, but it boasts no shortage of the rich, the fast, and the famous. Sharing our pontoon finger was a small 30-something; a tired looking vessel, but not through neglect but a mighty dose of ocean adventure. The motif emblazoned large on the hull was a cartoon caricature of boat and owner... Izabel Pimentel and her beloved 'Don'. Izabel is a sailor of remarkable achievements; first Brazilian woman to sail single-handed across the Atlantic, and first Latin American to circle to globe alone. Arkyla may have physically towered over this little boat, but also felt more than humbled by her wealth of sea miles and adventures!
Also in port was 'Raven'; a 34m foiling ultra-lightweight 'day sailer' superyacht bidding to break the trans-Atlantic speed record. Whilst the team were ashore in the marina's Jolly Rodger bar, we sneaked past security (someone left the pontoon gate open) to get a close-up look at this monster - 'wow' was pretty much the only word we uttered until being asked to remove ourselves back to our own pontoon!
Lanzarote roadtrip. With all the previous delays to this delivery, we didn't have enough time in the bag to explore by sail as originally hoped. We did though give ourselves a day to hire a car and tick off some of the 'must see' items of Lanzarote. The first impression of the island is one of a baron, hostile world; take time to explore however and there really are some marvels to discover. First stop on the itinerary was the lookout from Mirador del Rio. At close to 500m above sea level, the views are spectacular down onto the island of La Graciosa and the Chinijo Archipelago National Park. We had originally hoped to take Arkyla into La Graciosa's Playa Francesa anchorage, but failed to register for a permit within the statutory time; at least from here we got a good view of the location - from on high it looked to be exposed to significant swell, so we weren't too disappointed to have missed dropping the hook there. We could also see the marina of Caleta Del Sabo and the only habitation on the island. The lookout is hollowed out of a cave and a product of famous local artist and hedonist César Manrique... more about him later!
After lunch at the decidedly 'end of the world' village of Orzola, next stop was to visit the Foundation museum of César Manrique. Remarkable on many levels; first the way that the house and grounds are moulded into the lava flows of the volcanic landscape, second the fabulous works of art adorning the house, and finally, and certainly not least, the photographic exhibits showing the extent of César's free-living (or is it loving) lifestyle - let's just say he was not a man to hold back on pleasure! ast stop on our mini road trip is a dash south to visit Marina Rubicon. Driving through the highlands, it is fascinating to see the methods that have evolved to grow crops in this alien landscape. To protect the plants from the sun, and shield them from the winds, hollows are scooped out of the soft, black volcanic soil, the rims further adorned with stone balustrades.
Leg 2: Lanzarote to Gran Canaria (6-7 Jul, 115 nm)
We want to time the entry into Las Palmas during daylight hours, so barter with the Marina Lanzarote office for a late departure. We take the chance to suck up local wisdom on the wind acceleration zones (WAZ) that we might expect on passage; advice is to stay close to the southern shore of the island to avoid the worst of the wind. After more than a week of sustained F5-6 northerlies though, it is the open sea state between the islands that plays heaviest on our minds. Before that though, we need to exit our berth... with over 20 knots of crosswind already blowing some pondering, head scratching, and revision of A-level physics is order of the day! Two marineros arrive on scene to help us out but, in typical fashion, the wind now shifts from one quarter to the other and then back again; Plan B is employed - have all lines assigned, wait for a lull, then power out fast before the bow can be taken!
Clear of the shelter of the harbour, the F6 wind is directly off Arkyla's stern so we are content to pootle along under jib alone but still making over 6 knots. As we progress down the eastern coast of Lanzarote, the wind gradually diminishes until, as we round the bottom corner to turn the bow westward, we are left wallowing in the swell. By now we have full sail out, but we can see ominous signs on the water of what is to come... this is where we were warned to beware the effects of the WAZ. Despite slatting sails, we reef down and, sure enough, we congratulate ourselves on this decision as, within a matter of 100 yards, we are blasted with a F7 that powers us along at 7.5 knots despite our handkerchief-sized sails. The plumes of spray coursing off the Fuerteventura island ferry's bow adds further credence to the need to ignore these WAZ at your peril.
We leave the WAZ, but the wind continues to blow at the forecast NNE F7. With no landmass to protect us, the sea state now rises too as we head across the open water toward Gran Canaria. Throughout the night the wind blows hard and the waves roll large. Before dawn some light rain also passes over us and we are all glad to be snug in full foulies despite our southerly latitude. We listen intently to a Pan Pan call on the radio; a suspected migrant boat has been reported off Tenerife - too far away to impact us in any way.
Gran Canaria is now in sight, albeit at times hidden behind a bank of cloud, and once again shipping becomes our main navigational hazard, not least the fast ferries going in and out of Las Palmas. We are joined by dolphins on our final push into port before lowering sail within the shelter of the outer harbour. By 1030, Arkyla is tied to her temporary summer home... delivery from the Med to her trans-Atlantic start-point has been completed! The stats so far; 1690 NM, 82 night hours, 140 hours motoring, 15 ports of call, 3 anchorages, 1 haul-out, and zero orca interactions!
Some lessons learned:
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Just one top tip for this section... ignore the wind acceleration zones at your peril!
Exploring Gran Canaria
Circumstances meant that summer plans to explore the Canaries by boat were, unfortunately, not possible. However Marina de Las Palmas is an ideal base for exploring Gran Canaria at least; it really is an island of great variety and many contrasts. Car rental is the best way to explore; although rental agencies close to the marina charge upwards of €40 a day for a vehicle, a decent sized car from OK Mobility by the airport will only set you back €5-6 a day. Be sure though to take out an annual rental car insurance policy as this is where their profits are made; cost of car €5 a day, cost of associated insurance €40 a day! It is worth getting a decently powered vehicle too as the interior roads are both steep and winding. The arterial roads around the island by contrast are excellent and puts the UK motorway network to shame.
Las Palmas. The city has much to offer and has a mix of 'old town' and 'modern'. As you would expect from a major trans-Atlantic hub, provisioning opportunities are both extensive and straightforward; many supermarkets will deliver direct to the boat (try Mercadona, Hiperdino), though the cheaper Aldi and Lidle supermarkets will require a car. Most goods can be purchased here but, as an island nation, prices are more expensive than in mainland Europe. In terms of marine supplies, there is no shortage of chandleries and specialist suppliers all within the promenade along the marina front.
The old town, a 30 minute walk from the marina, has its fair share of history and architecture, not least the Plaza de Santa Ana next to the 16th century cathedral. When heading back to the boat, be sure to stop by the enclosed fruit and vegetable market which is a feast for all senses.
South Coast. It only takes 30 minutes to drive to the southern tourist area centred around Maspalomas. This stretch of coast is famous for its towering sand dunes . These are a natural beauty in stark contrast to the large hotel resorts serving the white sand beaches. Not all is modern though, and the lighthouse 'Faro de Maspalomas' is a striking nautical feature to crane your neck back and look up at.
Further west along the coast is Puerto Mogan. Dubbed the 'Venice of the Canaries', you'd be forgiven for thinking this is a well preserved olden-day fishing town though, in reality, it is a well-architected resort of 1980s vintage! It is possible to berth here, though the fairways could best be described as 'challengingly tight'! There is a day anchorage outside the port too.
Island Interior. When heading for the interior it doesn't take long for the wide motorway lanes to morph into narrow winding lanes as you gain vertical metres; as we climb the hillsides we realise why the motorways feel so empty... all the cars seem to be waiting to meet you head-on at the gnarliest of the many steep-sided switchbacks! The rewards are well worth the effort and sacrificed heartbeats however; drive to the high point above Tejeda and you are rewarded with stunning views across to Tenerife and sight of the rather random Roque Nublo - surely some aberration of the laws of physical geography! The charming village of Tejeda is also a good place to stop for lunch before venturing further on. Further north, but still in the hills, is Teror; not as frightening as its name implies, this small town is a popular pilgrimage destination - it is the Canaries version of the famous Santiago di Campostella walking route, and care must be taken on the drive up and down not to run into those visiting 'the hard way'!
North Coast. Unshielded from the predominant trades, the north coast has a very different feel to the resort areas on the south of the island. Ageate is just a 30 minute drive from the marina where you can visit the harbour and, if you are crazy enogh, take a dip in the natural rock swimming pools. When heading back to Las Palmas, it is worth the effort diverting up into the hills to visit Iglesia de San Roque, a quaint little settlement noted for its cascading fountain in the centre of the town.
Top tips:
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Cheap car rental is possible from the airport, but have annual car rental insurance to avoid the excessively expensive local waivers.
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Rent a car with a decent sized engine... you'll be glad of it getting into the central mountains.
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The address for online grocery delivery to Las Palmas marina (Meulle Deportivo) is: Joaquin Blanco Torrent St, 87, Marine Pontoon 'XX', 35005 Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.
ARC+ Preparations (late Oct-early Nov)
ARC Town. As October pushes toward November, the number of distinctive ARC colours flown from spreaders grows daily across the pontoons. Independent 'crossers' at this point in time are somewhat unceremoniously told to slip their lines as all available space is needed, and reserved, for the two fleets; the ARC+ rally that first departs via Cabo Verde for Grenada, then the original ARC leaving 2 weeks later direct for St Lucia. After such a good experience of the rally in 2022, Arkyla is booked on ARC+. Many bemoan the ARC for forcing skippers into sailing to a timetable, but my personal experience is that the support to 'beat the bureaucracy' is worth the entry price alone. The happy hours, parties, and opportunities to meet other cruisers is then all thrown in for free! The chandleries are well stocked here, but beware that importing anything into the Canaries - even for the resident businesses - is anything but speedy; if possible bring your boat fully loaded with spares to Gran Canaria! One good point though is that fuel here is cheap!
The flag ceremony signals that the event is truly underway. Grouped into nations, crews parade through the marina to the sound of a brass band at the front of the ensemble and a drum group bringing up the rear. We even get a police escort! With the flags hoisted up the staffs, skippers and crews can be seen looking for spare 'real estate' on the boulders of the mole to paint their boat logo and thereby leave evidence of their crossing to sailors of future years.
Top tips:
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Cockroaches thrive here; beware eggs from crushed beasties trnsporting themselves to your vessel via the soles of your shoes!
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The marina toilet and shower blocks are basic; expect insect guests and carry your own toilet paper. A wise investment, for €10 a week, is to join the Veradero Club... great ablution facilities, wifi, a good coffee shop and bar, and a swimming pool too!
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Don't try to import any goods into the Canaries - they will likely get stuck in customs. Get crew to bring out any last minute spare parts.
ARC+ Leg 1: Las Palmas to Mindelo (10-22 Nov 24)
10th November... the day has finally commeth! Whatever is still outstanding must remain outstanding as this is the day the lines are finally slipped from European soil and Arkyla is to head south to the tropics. We join the queue to motor out past the well-wishers waving enthusiastically from the breakwater to rousing tunes from a local brass band. We get our first taste of the competence of some of the rally skippers; with a long line of vessels heading to the marina exit, the large catamaran ahead (that shall remain anonymous), oblivious to the impending pile up behind, decides to stop mid channel (taking all the channel) to savour the moment!
At 1300 hrs the gun sounds, the signal flag drops, and the fleet sets off south... or at least attempts to as, almost as soon as the leg is started the wind shifts and those boats that choose to sail rather than motor head east toward Africa! After 2 hours of sailing not very fast, and in the wrong direction, Arkyla joins the rest of the fleet in turning on the iron mainsail to make some progress toward our Cabo Verde goal. By 1730 hrs, with 30 minutes of daylight left, there is a whisper of breeze so we cut the engine and hoist the Parasailor... we are sailing at a respectable lick of 5 knots! We sail south into the darkness iunder clear skies and a mild swell.
Day 2. Dawn arrives with a fresher breeze, larger seas, and a more confused swell; gusts are blowing to 23 knots but we feel confident in still flying the Parasailor. Arkyla is flying along and our first recorded 24-hour run is 152 nm - not bad considering the painfully slow start! The first rally position report has us at 24th in the fleet - impressive given our handicap rating as the 12th slowest boat of 94! During the day we encounter our first technical difficulty - the hydrogenerator is giving no charge! Emails to Remoran in Finland determine that we have a unit from a known bad batch, susceptible to corrosion, so there is no fix - we must adapt to our new reality of reduced renewable energy; we hand helm more and must top up batteries by running the engine - exactly what I do not want to do. At least the freshening breeze is powering the wind generator. As night approaches we consider the stronger wind and debate if we should douse the spinnaker; the forecast is for steady winds so we decide to keep it flying.
The forecast was wrong! The wind is now blowing a steady F7, and the Parasailor is at its limits. despite us now being in darkness, I decide to douse the kite. Disaster strikes! At the mast, somehow the Parasailor halyard frees itself from the jaws of the winch; the sail drops instantly to the ocean as the halyard shoots up the mast - I only just get my hand out of the way, though three fingers are badly swollen. There are tears; not from the pain in my hand, but the sight of the stricken sail. We are left wallowing for 2 hours as we try to recover the sail back onboard; in that time we drift 4 nm! The sail is unceremoniously shoved into the forward hatch displacing the crew from their quarters. Exhausted, we set full main and the jib to make 7 knots - we have some catching up to do!
Day 3. With the new morning we reassess our situation; beam reaching is not going to win us any prizes, so we set the pole and pull out the twin headsail rig... we are back on track and powering back up through the boats that had overtaken us during our misfortune. Despite the disaster, our 24-hour run is another respectable 157 nm. We settle into a rhythm and make steady progress south - life is back on the up.
Days 4-5. The wind stays steady and we crack along... 164 nm is our new 24-hour run record. Several times we are joined by dolphins to lift the spirits and speed us on our way. We still need to run the engine daily to top up the batteries, and we have sadly had to sacrifice the freezer and its pre-cooked contents; the compressor was continuously running even on low power - dried ships biscuits and weevils it. must be!
Days 6-7. Our march back up through the fleet has been steady, but by the early hours of Friday the wind becomes light and flukey; an annoying quarter swell also keeps knocking the wind out of the now slapping headsails. If ever we needed a (working) Parasailor, this is the time. In these ight airs, Arkyla won't even entertain the notion of a broad reach, so we must continue toward Mindelo under the collapsing twins. All morning, afternoon, and into the next night progress is painfully slow. Our one highlight is catching the leading edge of a squall and, for 30 minutes, riding along at 8.5 knots. We see the sun rise one more time and, at 0841, we cross the finish line, furl our sails and motor into Midelo marina - leg 1 complete albeit with a few casualties!
Lesson Learned:
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If in doubt, douse the spinnaker before dark!
Cabo Verde R&R (repair and restore): Mindelo, São Vicente (22-28 Nov 24)
Repairs. Safely tied to the dock, we prioritise activities; breakfast, a beer, organise repairs! The most important task is to haul the still soaking Parasailor from its purgatory forepeak resting place. Only now can we glimpse the extent of the damage caused by an ocean plunge whilst travelling at 8+ knots. As well as the few small tears in the nylon fabric I was already aware of, it now becomes clear that there is a large and significant tear below the wing section of the sail - this is too big and complex a job for the basic sail services in Cabo Verde. I turn my attention instead to other needed fixes before we can depart again within the week.